Whether you love it or hate it, Labskaus has been a traditional dish in Northern Germany for centuries and shows no sign of losing its charm anytime soon. It is rustic sailor's fare made from mashed potato, corned beef, beets, and pickles.
Although Hamburger Labskaus is the most famous, you will also find this dish in Bremen (where I am from—read more about me here), Schleswig-Holstein, and Northern Lower Saxony.

What is Labskaus
Labskaus is a potato dish made with cured beef, beetroot, and pickles. It originated as a nautical dish, made from ingredients that have a long shelf life and are therefore suited for long sea journeys.
What does it taste like? Labskaus's taste light a hearty potato mash. The corned beef adds a peppery note, whilst the beet and pickles add a sweet and sour contrast. Depending on whether you eat it with fish, it may also have a salty element.
This is how you pronounce Labskaus:
History
Labskaus is a seafaring dish. In the past, it was difficult to bring fresh ingredients on board, so the cook would make a porridge from cured meat, canned beetroot, onions, and potatoes. If available, they would add salted fish and an fried egg. Ships sometimes kept live chickens on board, which would first provide eggs and then later be butchered for soup.
Nobody knows where the name "Labskaus" originated from - it probably has English origin. This dish is not only eaten in Germany but different versions can be found in Scandinavia and even Liverpool has their own take on this famous dish.
Legends
Many legends surrounding this famous dish are pretty curious.
According to one legend, many sailors were ill with scurvy and therefore toothless. So, the cook ground all the ingredients to make them easier to consume (although the meat grinder was not invented until the 19th century).
Another story tells of Labskaus being invented during a storm. The waves were so high that it was difficult to serve any food that would not roll off a plate. So, the cook invented a porridge that would stick to a spoon as well as to a plate. And that is how Labskaus was born. [Source: Nordische-Esskultur.de]
How to make Labskaus
There is no single "original" recipe for Labskaus. Every household makes it differently. Some purée the beetroot and add it straight into the mash. Others add the pickles instead, and others add the fish into the mash.
This recipe serves beetroot and pickles on the side- so it is easy for the eater to adjust it to their personal taste.
Ingredients:
The main Labskaus ingredients are potatoes, corn beef, onions, pickled gherkins (affiliate link), and beetroot.
Corn beef is a modern ingredient because it is difficult to get cured beef in the supermarket. However, you will find restaurants in the North such as Hamburg and Bremen, serving Labskaus made with homemade cured beef brisket.
Labskaus Recipe Steps
- Peel the potatoes and boil them in salted water (with 1 teaspoon of salt) until tender.
- Peel and finely chop the onions. Remove the corned beef from the can and cut it into rough cubes. Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a pan over medium-high heat. Sauté the onions until they turn translucent. Add 2 tablespoons of gherkin brine, then stir in the corned beef. Cook for another 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.
- Drain the cooked potatoes and let the steam evaporate. Mash them lightly—some lumps are fine for texture.
- Mix the mashed potatoes with the corned beef mixture. Stir in the beet juice and remaining gherkin brine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Adjust the beet juice and pickle brine to your preference.
- Mix the mashed potatoes with the corned beef mixture. Stir in the beet juice and remaining gherkin brine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Adjust the beet juice and pickle brine to your preference.
- Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil in a pan. Fry the eggs to your desired doneness.
- Plate the Labskaus. Garnish with cooked beet slices and pickles on the side. Top with the fried eggs and optional soused herring (rollmops).
Storage
Labskaus will keep in the fridge for up to three days. It is also suitable for freezing.
More Northern German Recipes
Recipe
Hamburger Labskaus (Corned Beef and Mashed Potatoes)
Ingredients
- 750 g potatoes starchy
- 2 tablespoon neutral oil
- 2 onions
- 1 can corned beef about 350 g/ 0.75 lb
- 4 tablespoon juice from the cooked beetroot
- 6 tablespoon gherkin brine (pickle juice from the jar)
- sliced red beetroot
- dill pickled gherkins (affiliate link)
- 4 eggs
- 4 soussed hering, (such as Matjes, Biskarkherking or Rollmöpse)
Instructions
- Peel the potatoes and boil them in salted water (with 1 teaspoon of salt) until tender.750 g potatoes
- Peel and finely chop the onions. Remove the corned beef from the can and cut it into rough cubes. Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a pan over medium-high heat. Sauté the onions until they turn translucent. Add 2 tablespoons of gherkin brine, then stir in the corned beef. Cook for another 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.2 tablespoon neutral oil, 2 onions, 1 can corned beef, 6 tablespoon gherkin brine
- Drain the cooked potatoes and let the steam evaporate. Mash them lightly—some lumps are fine for texture.
- Mix the mashed potatoes with the corned beef mixture. Stir in the beet juice and remaining gherkin brine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Adjust the beet juice and pickle brine to your preference.4 tablespoon juice from the cooked beetroot
- Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil in a pan. Fry the eggs to your desired doneness.4 eggs
- Plate the Labskaus.: garnish with cooked beet slices and pickles on the side and top with the fried eggs and optional soused herring.
Peter Ashford says
Will be trying this recipe as mid week meal, Thanks Marita